I know, you wish there were photos. So do I...
It has been so much fun to go through all the fun stuff we got at Oto's Marketplace in Sacramento last week. I thought I would highlight a few of my favorite things.
Little ceramic rice bowls - Inventorying my kitchen cabinets, it would seem that typical American soup or cereal bowls have increased in volume over the last 50 years. The three sets that I have acquired in the last 10 years boast a volume of over three cups each. That might be acceptable for a main-dish salad or (a large single serving of) soup, but it can be pretty disappointing to be served one scoop of ice cream in one of those huge bowls. Most often I end up using them as serving bowls for side dishes; they are the perfect size for our family of four. By contrast, the bowls I inherited from my grandmother (which are at least 30 years old) hold approximately 2 cups of food. I find them to be the perfect size for soup or oatmeal. For smaller quantities--a scoop of ice cream, a serving of baby food, something to hold a small snack-- I resort to 1-cup Pyrex bowls and, okay, my two sets of ramekins. Wow, that's a lot of bowls! So maybe I didn't need this cute little set of rice bowls, but I love them. They are perfect for serving ice cream. That's how I remember my stepmother serving ice cream when I was little. Or, of course for serving rice.
Japanese food-whether in a restaurant or a home kitchen- is beautiful, because there is so much focus on fresh ingredients and presentation. Japanese home cooks take care to slice tofu, meats and fish evenly and to cut vegetables into pleasing shapes. It is traditionally a very healthful cuisine, with emphasis on vegetables, fruits, soy, fish and rice. And if served in Japanese-style dishes, it is naturally portion-controlled.
Chopsticks - Okay, I think all four of us--my mother-in-law, my father-in-law, my husband and I--put chopsticks in the shopping basket, because we came home with over 20 pairs. (This is after I bought a set of 20 plain chopsticks when we had friends over for sushi for my husband's birthday last June.) But these new chopsticks are fun chopsticks. There's a pastel-checkered set, and bamboo striped set, and an individual pair that has some kind of decorative rock embedded in it. I know, we went a little overboard. But it is kind of fun when everybody can pick out their favorite set of chopsticks for each meal. And now we will always have plenty for guests. Wanna come over for a sushi party?
Nori Komi Furikaki Rice Seasoning - A mixture of toasted nori flakes, sesame seeds, sugar and salt, to sprinkle over rice (or, may I suggest, popcorn). Sweet, salty and nutty in a 1.7 ounce jar. (If you've ever had Trader Joe's Sprouted Brown Rice Bowl, this is the same mixture that is in that little seasoning packet.) Yum. They had other more exotic flavors of rice seasoning--one of them included salmon--but I stuck with what I was familiar with.
Mochi Ice Cream - yes, you can buy strawberry, mango and green tea at Trader Joes, but at Oto's we found Kona Coffee.
Rice Candy - My husband and I both picked up a couple boxes, saying they were for our 6 year old. And we were both irritated with each other when we gave our daughter the other person's candy. At Oto's these little boxes were 89 cents each. Elsewhere, I find them for $1.49 each.
Toasted Nori and Roasted Nori Snack - My daughter often takes a sheet of nori, the sushi wrapper, to school in her lunch box. After reading one Japanese author's account of having sea vegetables in her lunch box when she she was younger, I asked my daughter what the other kids think about her seaweed. I don't remember exactly how she responded, but my response was, "I'm sorry kids are making fun of you." To which she replied, "Mom, they are not making fun of me. They are making fun of my food. Who cares?" I suppose that means she is well-adjusted.
Dried Bonito Flakes - As I mentioned in my post on Miso Soup, I've looked all over for these. I think most Asian food markets sell them, it's just that they don't always have the translation to English on the label. (I've included a picture on the left...Why didn't I just Google Image Search it years ago?)
Bonito is a super-thinly-sliced, dried tuna that is used a great deal in Japanese cooking. When I first opened the package I noticed a really smoky, meaty smell, not unlike bacon. I am looking forward to getting more familiar with this ingredient.
Loacker Quadratini Wafers - True, these are not Japanese. And true, they don't fit into a Locavore diet unless you live in the Italian Alps, but I have a bit of an addiction to them. Think bite-size square Kit Kats without the chocolate coating! Oto's carries the Cappuccino, Hazelnut, Vanilla and Dark Chocolate varieties.
Sushi Rice - Yeah, you can buy it at many grocery stores, but a Japanese market has such a selection, that it is fun to get it there, even if you don't know anything about the differences in the various types and brands. And believe me, there are differences, but, no, I don't know what they are. Sushi rice is made with short grain rice, which cooks up to be pleasantly sweet and a bit sticky.
To Make Rice for Sushi:
Adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman
Cook 1 1/2 cups sushi rice according to the directions on the package. When the rice is almost finished, meat in a small saucepan, 1/3 cup rice vinegar, 1/4 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon salt. Stir to dissolve salt and sugar and remove from heat. Transfer rice to a large shallow pan (such as a 13 x 9" baking pan or a large, shallow mixing bowl. Toss rice with a large spatula to cool it. While tossing it, sprinkle it with the sushi rice seasoning. Toss to thoroughly mix in the seasoning and to cool the rice. Do not stop tossing until rice is at room temperature.
Want some good homestyle Japanese recipes? Check out this book. The co-author grew up in Japan and now lives in New York City. All the recipes are things that she or her Japanese mother make in their own kitchens.
September 24, 2010
September 23, 2010
Miso Soup
You know you might be a foodie when all your souvenir shopping takes place at food markets. This weekend after some wonderful shabu-shabu and a trip to Oto's Market in Sacramento, I came home and made miso soup.
Did you know that I looked in speciality markets and Asian food stores for over three years before I found bonito flakes (dried tuna, I believe) and kombu (a certain type of seaweed), the two ingredients in dashi? I found kombu at Chico Natural Foods a while ago, but Oto's is the first place I have found bonito flakes that were clearly marked in English, so that I could confirm that they were indeed bonito flakes. I'm sure I've run across them in other Asian markets, but never with enough of an English label to determine that that is really what it was.
Being without dashi in the past, I have tended to make miso soup simply with boiling water poured over a heaping spoonful of miso paste, a handful of cubed firm tofu and half a sheet of nori, torn into 2" strips. I top it with thinly sliced scallion. Not much more difficult than Cup O-Soup, it is our favorite soup-when-someone-has-a-cold. Still, I have kept a look out for the bonito flakes and kombu required to make a traditional dashi stock.
Dashi Stock
adapted from How to Cook Anything by Mark Bittman
In medium soup-pot or sauce pan, combine 1 quart cold water with a 6" piece of kombu. Turn heat to medium-low and bring almost to a boil. Test kombu, if it is not yet tender, add a little more cold water and let cook a couple more minutes until tender. Remove kombu. (Kombu can be used once more for a second batch of dashi, or cut into small pieces and added to a stirfry.) Add half-cup bonito flakes. Cook 1-2 minutes. Do not allow to boil. Pour stock through a sieve and press to extract as much flavor as possible from the bonito. (Discard bonito.) Stock can be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Simple Miso Soup
Similar to the soup often used as a starter course in Japanese restaurants. Miso is a salty soy paste, increasingly available in Asian and natural food stores.
Makes 4-6 servings.
1 quart dashi, or substitute 2 cups chicken broth and 2 cups water
4 oz firm tofu, cut into small cubes
3 sheets nori, cut or torn into 2" strips
3 tablespoons miso, plus more to taste, white, brown, red, whatever you have on hand
3 scallions, sliced thinly on the diagonal
In medium saucepan over medium heat, heat dashi to a simmer. Place miso in liquid measuring cup. Ladle approximately 1 cup of hot dashi into measuring cup and whisk to combine. To the simmering dashi in the saucepan, add tofu cubes. Cook 1 minute, just enough to heat through. Turn off heat. Add dashi-miso mixture and nori. Stir gently to combine without breaking tofu. Ladle into small soup bowls and top with scallions.
Heartier Miso Soup
To create a heartier miso soup, one that can be used as a vegetable side dish or even a main course, simply cook a up to four of your favorite vegetables in the dashi stock prior to adding the tofu. Remember to carefully cut the vegetables into appropriately sized pieces, and add those that would take longer to cook (such as carrots, winter squash or sweet potatoes) first, following them with vegetables that require progressively less cooking time (various mushrooms, thicker greens, cabbage, udon noodles) and finally things that cook almost instantly (spinach, peas, bean sprouts and nori).
Did you know that I looked in speciality markets and Asian food stores for over three years before I found bonito flakes (dried tuna, I believe) and kombu (a certain type of seaweed), the two ingredients in dashi? I found kombu at Chico Natural Foods a while ago, but Oto's is the first place I have found bonito flakes that were clearly marked in English, so that I could confirm that they were indeed bonito flakes. I'm sure I've run across them in other Asian markets, but never with enough of an English label to determine that that is really what it was.
Being without dashi in the past, I have tended to make miso soup simply with boiling water poured over a heaping spoonful of miso paste, a handful of cubed firm tofu and half a sheet of nori, torn into 2" strips. I top it with thinly sliced scallion. Not much more difficult than Cup O-Soup, it is our favorite soup-when-someone-has-a-cold. Still, I have kept a look out for the bonito flakes and kombu required to make a traditional dashi stock.
Dashi Stock
adapted from How to Cook Anything by Mark Bittman
In medium soup-pot or sauce pan, combine 1 quart cold water with a 6" piece of kombu. Turn heat to medium-low and bring almost to a boil. Test kombu, if it is not yet tender, add a little more cold water and let cook a couple more minutes until tender. Remove kombu. (Kombu can be used once more for a second batch of dashi, or cut into small pieces and added to a stirfry.) Add half-cup bonito flakes. Cook 1-2 minutes. Do not allow to boil. Pour stock through a sieve and press to extract as much flavor as possible from the bonito. (Discard bonito.) Stock can be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Simple Miso Soup
Similar to the soup often used as a starter course in Japanese restaurants. Miso is a salty soy paste, increasingly available in Asian and natural food stores.
Makes 4-6 servings.
1 quart dashi, or substitute 2 cups chicken broth and 2 cups water
4 oz firm tofu, cut into small cubes
3 sheets nori, cut or torn into 2" strips
3 tablespoons miso, plus more to taste, white, brown, red, whatever you have on hand
3 scallions, sliced thinly on the diagonal
In medium saucepan over medium heat, heat dashi to a simmer. Place miso in liquid measuring cup. Ladle approximately 1 cup of hot dashi into measuring cup and whisk to combine. To the simmering dashi in the saucepan, add tofu cubes. Cook 1 minute, just enough to heat through. Turn off heat. Add dashi-miso mixture and nori. Stir gently to combine without breaking tofu. Ladle into small soup bowls and top with scallions.
Heartier Miso Soup
To create a heartier miso soup, one that can be used as a vegetable side dish or even a main course, simply cook a up to four of your favorite vegetables in the dashi stock prior to adding the tofu. Remember to carefully cut the vegetables into appropriately sized pieces, and add those that would take longer to cook (such as carrots, winter squash or sweet potatoes) first, following them with vegetables that require progressively less cooking time (various mushrooms, thicker greens, cabbage, udon noodles) and finally things that cook almost instantly (spinach, peas, bean sprouts and nori).
September 20, 2010
Hazelnut Brownies II - Chewy Hazelnut
Since my first batch of Hazelnut Brownies were a chocoholic's dream and I felt a little chocolated-out, I decided to highlight the Hazelnut flavor in the second batch of brownies by modifying a recipe for Nutty Butterscotch Blondies that I found in King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking. Essentially, a blondie is a brownie without the chocolate. It wasn't that I didn't want the chocolate, I just didn't want the chocolate to overpower the hazelnut. So with this second attempt at Hazelnut Brownies, a Nutella-Hazelnut batter is marbled into a hazelnut blondie batter. Then it is topped with chopped hazelnuts for some textural contrast, as well as a visual reminder of what one should be tasting.
While my first Hazelnut Brownies were egg-leavened and used a minimal amount of flour, this second batch is leavened with baking powder. For the flour, being that the starting recipe is from King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking, I used white whole wheat. I like whole wheat, because it gives full-bodied cookies and brownies a little ump, so that the texture stands up to the flavor. I wouldn't use whole grain flours in delicate cookies, such as Katz Tongues or Madelines, but in anything chocolatey, I like to use whole grain flour for at least a portion of the all-purpose.
The end result is chewy, buttery and nutty. But you know what I concluded?
Maybe I don't really crave the real hazelnut-chocolate combination. Maybe what I crave is Nutella... Or Frangelico over ice.
Isn't it a bummer to all of us natural food enthusiasts when the -flavored product is somehow more satisfying than the 'natural?' But, oh well, opening a jar of Nutella or a bottle of Frangelico is certainly less time-consuming than mixing and baking a pan of brownies. Besides, my waistline needs a break from this kitchen adventure.
Hazelnut Nutella Blondies
Highly adapted from King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking
1 1/2 cups hazelnuts
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup each white sugar and brown sugar
4 eggs, divided
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup white whole wheat flour, whole wheat pastry flour or spelt flour
3/4 cup Nutella
1. Toast hazelnuts: Preheat oven to 350º. Roughly chop hazelnuts. Toast on ungreased rimmed cookie sheet 5 minutes. Stir. Toast 3-7 minutes more until just golden. Nuts may go from white to burnt in less than a minute, so keep an eye on them and be smelling for a nutty aroma. Let nuts cool. Then grind 2/3 of the hazelnuts into a powder in a food processor (or coffee grinder--but don't blame me if it breaks). Reserve the remaining 1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts.
2. Line a 13 x 9" baking pan with parchment paper and spray with cooking oil. Set aside.
3. Melt butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from heat and add sugars, mixing until well blended. Transfer butter-sugar mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer.
4. Add three of the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape bowl. Beat in vinegar and vanilla. Beat in baking powder and salt. Scrape bowl. On low speed, beat in ground hazelnuts and flour, just until blended.
5. Spread about 3/4 of hazelnut batter in prepared baking pan. To the remaining batter add Nutella and the fourth egg. Beat to combine, about 20 seconds. Spoon Nutella batter over hazelnut batter. Run a table knife through the batters to swirl. Top evenly with reserved hazelnuts.
6. Bake at 350º 26-28 minutes, until the top looks shiny and puffed. A cake tester inserted in the middle should reveal sticky crumbs. Let brownies cool completely--or at least almost completely--in pan before cutting into bars. Store tightly covered at room temperature for a couple of days, or freeze for longer storage.
While my first Hazelnut Brownies were egg-leavened and used a minimal amount of flour, this second batch is leavened with baking powder. For the flour, being that the starting recipe is from King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking, I used white whole wheat. I like whole wheat, because it gives full-bodied cookies and brownies a little ump, so that the texture stands up to the flavor. I wouldn't use whole grain flours in delicate cookies, such as Katz Tongues or Madelines, but in anything chocolatey, I like to use whole grain flour for at least a portion of the all-purpose.
The end result is chewy, buttery and nutty. But you know what I concluded?
Maybe I don't really crave the real hazelnut-chocolate combination. Maybe what I crave is Nutella... Or Frangelico over ice.
Isn't it a bummer to all of us natural food enthusiasts when the -flavored product is somehow more satisfying than the 'natural?' But, oh well, opening a jar of Nutella or a bottle of Frangelico is certainly less time-consuming than mixing and baking a pan of brownies. Besides, my waistline needs a break from this kitchen adventure.
Hazelnut Nutella Blondies
Highly adapted from King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking
1 1/2 cups hazelnuts
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup each white sugar and brown sugar
4 eggs, divided
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup white whole wheat flour, whole wheat pastry flour or spelt flour
3/4 cup Nutella
1. Toast hazelnuts: Preheat oven to 350º. Roughly chop hazelnuts. Toast on ungreased rimmed cookie sheet 5 minutes. Stir. Toast 3-7 minutes more until just golden. Nuts may go from white to burnt in less than a minute, so keep an eye on them and be smelling for a nutty aroma. Let nuts cool. Then grind 2/3 of the hazelnuts into a powder in a food processor (or coffee grinder--but don't blame me if it breaks). Reserve the remaining 1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts.
2. Line a 13 x 9" baking pan with parchment paper and spray with cooking oil. Set aside.
3. Melt butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from heat and add sugars, mixing until well blended. Transfer butter-sugar mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer.
4. Add three of the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape bowl. Beat in vinegar and vanilla. Beat in baking powder and salt. Scrape bowl. On low speed, beat in ground hazelnuts and flour, just until blended.
5. Spread about 3/4 of hazelnut batter in prepared baking pan. To the remaining batter add Nutella and the fourth egg. Beat to combine, about 20 seconds. Spoon Nutella batter over hazelnut batter. Run a table knife through the batters to swirl. Top evenly with reserved hazelnuts.
6. Bake at 350º 26-28 minutes, until the top looks shiny and puffed. A cake tester inserted in the middle should reveal sticky crumbs. Let brownies cool completely--or at least almost completely--in pan before cutting into bars. Store tightly covered at room temperature for a couple of days, or freeze for longer storage.
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